When, many years ago, I first saw Lowther Castle I was quite taken aback.  Driving near Askham, south of Penrith, on the Eastern side of the English Lake District, suddenly this amazing building appeared on the horizon.  Decades after its substantial destruction and exposure to the elements the massive skeleton stands impressive still.

Lowther Castle c1880

Over the course of its history Lowther has gone through many ups and downs.  It has suffered from fire, weather, and sometimes profligacy and neglect as human generations have come and gone.

The present structure stands on the site of earlier buildings, its construction relatively recent in historical terms. It was just over two hundred years ago, in 1806, that Sir Hugh Lowther the 5th Earl specified to his architect this residence of great splendour, and one has to say extravagance, that later generations eventually found uneconomic to sustain.

After glory days before World War I Lowther Castle began to decline, and its once internationally praised gardens began to suffer from inadequate care as costs spiralled.  After use by the army in World War II the castle’s contents were taken away in the 1940s and by the end of the 50s the roof had been removed to make the building safe.  Gradually Lowther Castle became a symbol of past glories.

Having said that, Lowther Park is not dead.  A wide variety of activities have continued to take place in the grounds, including the annual Lowther Horse Driving Trials and Country Fair.  Also, the Lakeland Bird of Prey Centre is based in the walled garden.

What is more, there are plans for the future of Lowther Castle.  One of the biggest restoration projects in the UK is currently underway. The first stages are expected to open to the public on Good Friday, 22nd April 2011 when part of the gardens will be open and people will be able to see something of the progress of the building work. It will, however, take years for the castle itself and its gardens to be brought back to anything approaching its previous splendour.   For more on the redevelopment of this historic building and its environs visit the website of the Lowther Castle & Gardens Project.

The above edited picture of Lowther Castle as it was in the past is taken from Morris’s Country Seats (1880) and shown here courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.

Over the past thirty years of driving up to Whitehaven, I’ve often looked across the valley to Muncaster Castle on the hillside above the River Esk not far from Ravenglass. Last week, though, I had reason to stop there. On my way north in the morning, and looking for somewhere to spend the night before driving back south, I spotted a B&B sign outside the gate to the castle’s plant centre.

Muncaster Castle west front, c1955
Reproduced courtesy of Francis Frith.

During a long career I’ve spent much of my time out and about around the UK and further afield, staying overnight in everything from country village pubs and b&b acommodation to five star hotels. Rarely, however, have I experienced B&B to the standard of Muncaster Castle “Coachman’s Quarters”. I was welcomed warmly by the ladies in the office, and having been shown around and booked my room I drove on past Ravenglass to Egremont, Whitehaven and Workington before returning to Muncaster in the evening.

The room itself, with en suite shower room, was comfortable and scrupulously clean (and with a plentiful supply of tea and coffee – a key point with me). The substantial cooked, “full English”, breakfast with lots of options was just what I like when away from home. The accommodation can also be booked for self-catering, and there was a well-equipped kitchen and dining area just down the corridor from my room. I could have used it if I’d wanted (and had the food with me). My preference though was to sit back with a book in the comfortable armchairs of the spacious lounge which, being a winter night with few people travelling in this area, I had entirely to myself.

The castle and gardens are not open to visitors at this time of year (see correction in the comments below), so in the morning before heading south to my next appointment I did a small detour down to the coast to visit the famous narrow gauge Ravenglass railway. Sadly, being out of season there was not a puff of smoke or jet of steam to be seen but it was pleasant to cast my mind back to my first visit as a child with my grandfather almost sixty years ago and a later visit in my early twenties to introduce my fiancé to this less well known part of the Lake District.

Well that’s enough maudlin diversion; let’s get back to today! If you’re en route to the West Cumbrian coast or visiting the Western Lakes you’ll find it hard to get better b&b than the Coachman’s Quarters at Muncaster Castle – or close by take a look at Muncaster Country Guest House.

See also: Where to go on the West Cumbria Coast

Updated November 2011

If you’re visiting the UK from overseas here’s a great option for making considerable savings in both time and money when visiting major tourist attractions. (Unfortunately for UK residents this is not available to us; it is only for international visitors to our country).

I’m referring to The Great British Heritage Pass which covers entry to hundreds of locations around the whole of Britain owned by the National Trust, The National Trust for Scotland, English Heritage, Historic Royal Palaces and more. You can experience much of the long history of Britain through visiting its stately homes and palaces, and also the more humble properties, available to you without further charge with one of these passes.

The Great British Heritage Pass is available both for individuals and families, and for different periods of time ranging from 4 days to 30 days (from the date first used). Backed by the British Tourist Authority (“VisitBritain”) this is an excellent facility.

Take a look at The Great British Heritage Pass website to check out the remarkable range of places you could visit, not only saving money but also making the best use of your time. Although understandably at some very popular locations you may still have to fit in with the visitor scheduling arrangements put in place to avoid overcrowding, you won’t have to stand in long lines to pay your entry charges.

Check it out now if you’re planning your visit to Britain.