The English Lake District: Ullswater
Ullswater is one of the most northerly of the Cumbrian lakes and at almost 9 miles long and ¾ mile across at its widest point is the second largest in the Lake District. It curves between the hills almost like an upended question mark. This district is much less crowded than the central lakes area between Windermere and Derwent Water but is deservedly very popular with visitors.
The road past Ullswater runs along its northern and westerly shore. On the eastern side a road from Pooley Bridge follows close to the shore as far as Howtown, but soon afterwards comes to an end apart from tracks to the farms high on Martindale Common.
At the northern end of the Ullswater is the village of Pooley Bridge with its narrow 16th-century bridge over the River Eamont as it flows out of Ullswater. Close by is Dunmallard Hill where there was an Iron Age fort.
Ullswater Accommodation
My wife and I have spent many happy days camping by the shores of Ullswater, including that wonderful hot summer of 2006. We also some years ago had a delightful weekend at the Leeming House Hotel which overlooks the lake from the north, and have made shorter visits on many occasions.
The Ullswater area is home to some excellent hotels. The area has several rosette restaurants and high-class country house hotels as well as comfortable if less sophisticated accommodation in traditional farmhouses. The villages of Patterdale and Glenridding to the south of the lake provide between them a wide range of visitor accommodation
Activities on and around Ullswater
There have been steamers sailing on Ullswater since 1855, and for the less energetic visitor these provide an excellent way of enjoying the beautiful scenery while relaxing on either “Lady of the Lake” or one of the other vessels as it makes its way between the jetties at Glenridding, Pooley Bridge and Howtown. You can take the opportunity to get off the boat at these points and explore the areas around, take a walk up into the hills, or enjoy a pleasant meal in Pooley Bridge or Glenridding before continuing on your circuit of the lake.
On the water Ullswater is a popular location for watersports such as windsurfing. Those who prefer the dry land and who are capable of a short steep walk may wish to visit the waterfalls at Aira Force, to the north of the lake a couple of miles from Glenridding. Aira Force is in the care of the National Trust which owns and protects around 13,000 acres in the area including several farms.
Ullswater Fish
Ullswater is also home to a rare and protected species left over from the last ice age, the Schelly (Coregonus wartmanni Dottrens) which is also found in Haweswater and Red Tarn. Interestingly, unlike most other Cumbrian lakes, Ullswater does not have a significant pike population and absence of this predator has influenced the balance of other species. There is good fishing to be had, for brown trout especially. Remember, though, to ensure that you have a license and also the permission of the landowner; advice on this can be sought in the villages. Local advice should also be taken if you are intending to fish from a boat, as to be caught in the wrong place by a sudden change of weather could be very dangerous.
There is an excellent information centre by the large carpark in Glenridding village
How To Get There
Whether arriving from north or south Ullswater is easily accessible from major transportation routes. Pooley Bridge, the village by the River Eamont as it leaves the lake, is only 5 miles from Penrith mainline railway station. Those coming in by road will find Ullswater to the west of the M6 motorway (junction 40) and just to the south of the A66 trunk road. From the Windermere and Ambleside area travel by the A592 over Kirkstone Pass.
